Drinks of the Month

Wine of the week: Zarper malbec

Wine of the week: Zarper malbec

I was going to recommend a rosé this week having got the misguided impression from the heatwave last weekend that summer was on its way. But today in my home town of Bristol it’s cold, windy and about to rain so I think malbec is more the order of the day.

This Zarper Malbec from Indomita is one I came across at the Morrisons tasting earlier in the week. It comes from Chile rather than Argentina - which is more common these days than it was a couple of years ago.

It shares the bold spicy character of its neighbour over the Andes with maybe a touch softer, riper fruit. It ain’t subtle but if you’re a fan of big reds it’s a handsome bottle at a decent price - £8 - that would be great with a barbecue or, given the weather, a chilli con carne.

What food to match with malbec

I’ve been assured the 2017 vintage, which is the one I tasted is in stock, so make sure that’s the one you buy.

The sauvignon blanc from the same producer at the same price is decent too.

Wine of the week: Planeta Mamertino 2015

Wine of the week: Planeta Mamertino 2015

One of the most captivating wine books I’ve read is Nina Caplan’s The Wandering Vine which explores the footprint the Romans left on the wine growing areas of Europe. Part wine guide, part travelogue, part personal journey and exploration of her Jewish roots, Caplan traces the interest in wine she derived from her late father.

The result is a very individual and highly readable book and a refreshingly different take on the wine world.

It’s left me with a desire to try the wines that have that Roman connection and this is one made by the redoubtable Planeta family who Nina and I both visited in Sicily 18 months ago when she was researching the book.

The wine, which is a blend of nero d’avola and nocera, is named after the Mamertini who were producing it, according to this feature in wine-searcher.com in the 1st century BC. It was described by Pliny and admired by Julius Caesar though I wonder how similar it tasted to the current version which is wonderfully fresh and delicate (13%), almost rose-scented though with some firm tannins underlying it.

I’d drink it with simply grilled lamb with spring veg if you can get hold of some but it’s really delicious on its own.

Planeta says “The small winery is only a few steps from the sea and surrounded by the splendid vines we planted at Cape Milazzo [on the north-east coast of Sicily] The Lucifero Foundation which own the property devotes a portion of the proceeds for Gigliopoli, social, cultural and recreational activities for children in the Milazzo area.”

You can buy it for £19.95 at Great Western Wine or £122.77 for a case of six at The Fine Wine Co

Domaine Joel Delaunay L’Esprit des Dames Touraine Chenonceaux 2014

Domaine Joel Delaunay L’Esprit des Dames Touraine Chenonceaux 2014

This was recommended by the manager at my local Oddbins in Bristol and I really love it.

It’s a blend of 50% Malbec and 50% Cabernet Franc from the Loire - more robust than many Loire reds (although still only 13%) with lovely dark ripe cherry fruit. It tastes quite like a natural (though not scarily so) wine.

It’s one of a number of offers that Oddbins has got on its range right now and is reduced from an admittedly slightly toppy £16 down to £13.60 which is a very fair price to pay for an artisanal wine.

I’d happily drink it with duck or simply grilled red meat like steak or lamb but it would also be great with pulses like braised lentils or with a bean dish like cassoulet.

Don’t bother with the Cattin Alsace pinot though despite the good reduction - down from £14.25 to £9.98. Pinot noir can take a while to come round but it's still a bit wimpy.

If I find any other good bargains in the sale I’ll let you know.

See also Should you buy wine in the sales?

 Earth’s Essence Shiraz 2016

Earth’s Essence Shiraz 2016

If you’re someone who is sensitive to sulphur but not convinced by natural wines Earth’s Essence shiraz is for you.

It’s aged by a revolutionary process which has been developed by giant South African wine producer KWV using wood extracts from the native rooibos and honeybush plants. They possess naturally high levels of antioxidants, which preserve the wines from oxidation and spoilage and does away with the need for sulphur.

According to KWV "When the Rooibos and Honeybush plants become too old for further tea production (after five years), the leaves and stems are removed so that only the wooden stem remains. These are dried in the sun, finely milled and roasted, and placed into infusion bags which are inserted into the wine."

The grapes are sourced from Swartland, one of the best wine regions for shiraz.

The net result is an extraordinarily natural-tasting vibrantly fruity red wine which is selling for a highly affordable £6.99 at Aldi (though not currently online). It would be brilliant for summer barbecues, steaks and burgers.

Chateau de Caraguilhes 2014 Corbieres

Chateau de Caraguilhes 2014 Corbieres

What bottle should you take to dinner with friends? It’s a tricky one. You want something that doesn’t break the bank but will impress. Cheap bordeaux and burgundy are dodgy. Barefoot and Blossom Hill brand you as a cheapskate

Obviously it depends what you’re eating (if you know) but this bottle of Corbières should fit the bill with anything meaty, especially roasts and stews.

Mainly syrah with a good whack of beefy carignan and a dash of grenache it’s a bottle that you - and they - will love if you like warming spicy reds though at 13% it’s not over-alcoholic.

It’s also made from organically grown grapes and is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. And it looks smarter than it’s £9.99 price tag (though if Waitrose has one of its periodic 25% off deals I’d definitely take advantage and stock up)

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